The moment our car, running along the smooth arcs of NH 6 crossed the borders of Assam and entered Meghalaya, there was a distinct change in the atmosphere. We just could not miss change in cloud patterns and a distinct drop in the temperature. Half an hour further up the roads, the rain came down in torrents. It was the month of October and past the prime rainy season, but untimely showers are a common occurrence in this state of India; except in the winters. The wettest months are June, July and August and that is when the numerous waterfalls come alive and cascade down the green faces of the mountains. Before entering Shillong , the highway passed along the large expanse of Umiam Lake with the afternoon light and rain clouds playing on the sky above it, creating a mosaic simply irresistible for photographers.

Surrounded by the green mountains, Shillong is a lovely city with its British era charm and various tourist spots around. But the true unspoiled charms of Meghalaya lie beyond the conventional tourist circuits of Shillong. This is one place where the tourist will get spoiled for choices. From trekking in the rain forests to explore hidden waterfalls, to exploring caves and further to boating on a beautiful river, the state has a lot to offer which might be difficult to cover in a single trip.  With every passing season a new cave or another waterfall is being added to the itinerary for the tourists. While the treks and waterfalls are accessible for the general people, most of the caves require expert guidance and proper equipment. Being a home for a number of tribes like Khasi, Garo etc. Meghalaya is an ideal spot for studying tribal culture or enjoying their hospitality in a village home-stay. Another unique heritage of this state is the living root bridges. Made from the aerial roots of the rubber trees these bridges are hundreds of years old and allow passage from one side of a stream to other in remote villages. This is a unique feat of engineering which showcases a perfect harmony between human effort and nature.

Cherrapunji , about two hours drive away from Shillong,  is called Sohra in the local language. It was once the record holder for the wettest place on this planet but the record is presently being held by a nearby small village, Mawsynram. The area is basically situated at the top of a plateau with its edges dropping steeply into the plains of Bangladesh at one end. At night the lights of the international border fencing between India and Bangladesh can be clearly seen shining like a garland through the darkness.

It is in Cherrapunji that one can view numerous waterfalls in their greatest splendour in the rainy season. The most famous ones among them are the Nohkalikai, which has a gruesome background story behind its nomenclature, the Seven Sister falls, Dainthean and many others. In the rainy season, tourists come to enjoy the beauty of the showers, when the rain blurs the landscape with its fury and life sprouts from every nook and corner in multiple hues of green.

My main interest while travelling to Cherrapunji from Shillong was to visit the lesser known spot called the Garden of Caves known as Ka Bri Ki Synrang in the local language. A few kilometres drive through open grasslands brought us to this relatively new spot where the locals have set up a stairs and walkways to connect a few sublimely beautiful waterfalls. Though none of the falls have a huge volume of water rushing down, at least not in this season, the entire area seems like a garden crafted by nature to provide a fairyland like setup.

The bright green moss and colourful orchids that hang down from the branches, the stairs leading down through the rain forest across streams; these simple handiwork of nature can make the whole area a part of any adventure movie set. The entire garden is perfectly maintained without any artificial touch to spoil the charms of a natural environment thereby making it a photographer’s paradise. Garden of Caves is one of the best places in Cherrapunji where one can just sit on the velvety moss, enjoying the rhythm of cascading water.

October was not the perfect season to catch the falls in the full flow as I found with the Seven Sisters and Dainthien going almost dry. The problem with Cherrapunji belt is that the huge volume of water that comes down the mountains in rainy season has no catchment area and hence the water flows completely away into the plains. As a result the whole area suffers from acute water shortage in the summer and winter months. I started for Nohkalikai the next morning and it did not disappoint me like the others. Though the viewing spot is a bit far off at one side, it gives a wide view of the entire scenery. The beauty of the white torrent dropping from the edge of the plateau down on the rocks, 340 metres below is a spectacular sight. For adventure lovers, there is a long trek through the forest that can bring one right to the mouth of the falls where it drops down into the valley floor.

The next attraction for the trip was to reach Jowai city and visit one of the most beautiful waterfalls of Meghalaya, Krang Suri. A long drive along the Bangladesh border while savoring the beauties of a few other waterfalls and then enjoying a boat ride on the emerald green waters of the Umgot river, brought me near Jowai city. 35 kilometres from the main city, we reached a plain area from where the kilometer long downhill trek to Krang Suri starts.

The path is well maintained by the local administration and while moving down, one can get a first glimpse of the falls through the forest. Reaching the spot and climbing down the makeshift bamboo steps one can simply marvel at the beauty of this water fall. The wide river emerges from the forest and plunges over into the greenish blue pool and then flows down hill over a bed of rocks. Sitting on one of these rocks and gazing at this white waterfall, while the spray swirls around in the wind like a mist, is simply an unforgettable experience. In the full rainy season, the water volume goes up and Krang Suri turns into a wild and untamed beauty.

With a variety of attractions,  Meghalaya has a lot to satisfy a varied range of travelers, be it the adventure lover or the casual tourist. The curse of civilization has left its mark on the land with the scars of human exploitation standing out in many places. But there are still places that are unspoiled, untouched and has retained the freshness of life through the millions of years of evolution. The winding roads that cut across the green mountains, the clouds that often rise up from the valley to hide a view at one step and then reveal it in the next are dreamy charms that make the place really special. This is a land that still retains the wild side of nature held like a secret in the deep rain-forests or in the interiors of a dark cave waiting for the true admirers to come, wander and explore.

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By Suvajit Banerjee

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