
A trip to the state of Meghalaya is not complete without venturing into the interiors of the state to taste the untouched freshness of nature. Mawphanlur, a tiny village located about 80 kilometers from Shillong, is one such destination. Far away from all the chaos and clamour this is a place where time seemed to have stopped still to take a break on the rolling hills. On the edges of these vibrantly green rolling hills nestle three beautiful pools of water which add another dimension to the beauty of the place. The village consists of a few houses and the villagers have their quaint lifestyles with a much intimate link to nature than we city dwellers can think of.

The 70-kilometer-long journey from Shillong to Markasa town is through the excellent NH106, curving around the green countryside and flowing rivers making the journey very scenic. From Markasa the track to Mawphanlur is a five-kilometer uphill drive. The kachcha road is strictly for vehicles with high ground clearance and the bumpiness of the journey reminded me of a ship in a stormy sea. But a proper road is under construction and it should be complete by this year. (At present the road is complete and is in good condition) The roads turned decent again for the last 500 meters before the village and then one enters the lovely setting of the place with the cottages of the Traveller’s Nest resting between the shiny water bodies. The setting is superb and the entire environment is pristine, making this an ideal place to just relax one’s mind and body.


The tarred path leads to the end of the village and one can further walk to the top of the hill overlooking the entire valley and an unending series of rolling hillocks and green valleys stretching away into the distant horizon. This is an ideal place to catch the radiant colours of the sunsets and sunrises and also to get a bird’s eye view of the village with the pools reflecting the hues of the clouds. The nights are chilly and the power supply is feeble. It was a full moon night and as I sat on the verandah, the melody of the crickets rising from the nearby bushes created a perfect combination of the mysterious and the charming. On a cloudless dark night, star gazing from here is definitely recommended for the urban traveller.

In the clear morning light, the views from the top of Mawphanlur can be mesmerizing in their own way. The simple combinations of the elements in a masterly fashion make it appear like a picture postcard. The grasslands that carpet the hilltop get covered by colourful flowers and one can simply lie down under to feel the warmth of the bright sunlight while the wind blows around playfully. With the tentacles of modern civilization tearing down the idyllic settings of nature, Mawphanlur is an exception where one can be close enough to feel the connection between oneself and the Earth.

Travel Information
One can rent a cab from Shillong to Mawphanlur and the trip onwards from Markasa can be arranged by the caretaker. Traveller’s Nest is the only place to stay in Mawphanlur with two cottages, each of which can accommodate two persons.
When I went for the first time, the accommodation and food provided were basic. At present the rooms have been upgraded and even have room heaters. You can call (Contact no. 6009136055 / 89745 77389 / 96150 43847) the caretaker of the cottages and advance booking has to be done through him. The next day, one can take a drive to the beautiful river island of Nongkhnum. Nongkhnum is the second largest river island in Asia and the journey is through beautiful terrain making it seem like a trip to the heart of nature.

By Suvajit Banerjee
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