Imagine a place where the dense clouds run up the green slopes of the green hills, the carefree rivers run through the dense greenery of the deep ravines and tumultuous waterfalls roar down through the mist into pools of transparent green water. I am talking about exploring Meghalaya in the rainy season when nature is at its greenest and wildest, in this small and beautiful state of eastern India.

Ever since my first visit to the state, I longed for another trip when the waterfalls remain at their best form and July presented a window of a week to plan out a quick trip. Many tourists have an idea that Meghalaya is just about Shillong, Cherrapunji, Mawlynnong and Dowki but that is a misconception. Even though it is small in size, Meghalaya has a lot of unique spots to explore and new destinations are coming up quite frequently. A comprehensive tour of the state will take at least two weeks for a group of nature lovers.
That said, when it comes to waterfalls, Cherrapunji or Sohra, has the largest variety that you will find in one place. Honestly, there is no answer to the question “How many falls are in Meghalaya?”. There are a lot and new ones are being explored every year.
While you may have heard of Nohkalikai or the Seven Sisters Falls, there are many hidden gems that are perfect for a day of waterfall hunting in Meghalaya. And each waterfall in Cherrapunji has a unique beauty of its own.

The unfortunate fact is that random exploitation of nature and irresponsible tourism is already hitting the state and destroying the pristine beauty that nature has created through centuries. So my request to all future visitors is to respect nature and preserve this outstanding destination as a responsible tourist.
Since my destination of chiefly the waterfalls, I will pick the top five that I found the most spectacular. Keep in mind that Meghalaya has plenty of gorgeous waterfalls, many of which are seasonal and this list is not an exclusive one. Unfortunately, many of the offbeat waterfalls in Meghalaya are getting commercialized which is a major loss for nature lovers. For example, during my second visit to Krang Suri waterfalls, I was turned off by the boisterous crowds that deprived the once beautiful place of its original serenity.
Thankfully, there are still a few waterfalls that are untouched by the commercial whipping. But for how long, is anyone’s guess. But Meghalaya still has many charms and surprises in its kitty that make it one of the best travel destinations in India. So for a first-time visitor to the state, these options will be a good choice.
Wah Rashi

Located at a distance of 65 kilometre from Shillong, this beauty consists of a series of five steps that the river comes down through. The location is in the Smit district and the road bifurcates just ahead of reaching the Laitlum canyons. The beauty of the road is another attraction that will keep a visitor enthralled through the journey. The condition of the road has improved too and I did not find any such bad patches that will seriously impact the charm of the drive.
The falls are at a distance of half a kilometre from the parking spot and the entire area is spotlessly maintained by the local village body. Viewpoints and stairs have been constructed to make it ideal for the family and only the top two tiers of the falls have to be accessed by makeshift wooden ladders. Apart from the four stages that are visible, there are four more steps that the river comes down but they are still not accessible.
When I walked down the stairs the entire area was covered by clouds and drops of rain fell constantly. The weather was not good for photography but the ambience was perfect to enjoy the dreamy charm of the beautiful location. The dense forests appeared greener and the flowing streams murmured through the rocks joyfully because of the rains. The falling water looked like a smooth white curtain merging with the clouds which floated and shifted in density.
If you visit during autumn and winter keep in mind that the weather stays absolutely clear but the volume of water comes down. Even so, the place still holds the natural charm and beauty that makes Meghalaya travel journeys so special.
Wei Sawdong

Sohra has never lacked waterfalls and during the rainy season, the number becomes almost uncountable. We headed for the falls after the sun hit the Sohra meadows that morning after a period of nine days. The beauty of Wei Sawdong is that it does not appear easily to the viewers and is just for those who love a touch of adventure. This triple-decker waterfall in Meghalaya has to be reached through a steep downhill climb into a deep ravine that is not recommended for the aged or the casual tourist. Bamboo ladders have been strategically placed but the rain makes them wet and slippery enough to add a few more levels to the challenge.
I had seen the picture of the falls during winter where it looked like a calm blue torrent and its monsoon makeup caught me by surprise. It was a raging torrent that covered the ravine with mist and spray, appearing wild and beautiful on the same note. The recent deluge had also added to the greenery of the ravine and the high walls rising around the falls were covered with ferns and creepers of all forms that made the area look like a phantom’s lair. It was breathtaking and fascinating on the same note and I could have spent hours in that ravine looking at the mesmerising view.
Note that this is a three-tier fall and there is a viewing point that bifurcates from the main downhill path at the midpoint. While coming up, I would suggest that you take this bifurcation and not miss the beautiful top view of Wei Sawdong. In winter, when the water is less, it is possible to climb up to the upper levels and enjoy the dip in the crystal clear pools.
Tyrshi Falls

Located on the Shillong-Jowai NH, Tyrshi Falls is a monsoon beauty that is definitely another must-visit for nature lovers. The short walk from the parking spot leads to the steep series of stairs that takes one down to the bottom of the falls. There is a viewpoint at the top but to enjoy the full beauty of the falls, you have to move down. The view of the milky white water cascading down the steep rock face is a delight and you can see the stream flowing down to the lush green Pynthor (paddy fields) down below.
The view of these paddy fields from Tyrshi Falls is another attraction and the green expanse nestling between the rolling hills offers a spectacular view during the monsoons. Tyrshi is one fall that I found very difficult to photograph due to the winds creating a large amount of spray that looks fascinating but makes it very difficult to place the camera. But the setting is beautiful and makes the falls one of the best monsoon beauties in Meghalaya.
In the drier season water quantity will be less and I think you can give Tyrshi a miss while travelling during that period.
Bydraw Falls

The path to Dawki has many lovely waterfalls along it including the famous Borehill Falls. But Visitors often miss the slight detour that takes you to one of the best falls in the area. A kilometre-long trek from the parking spot leads through green forests goes up and down through steep stairs and a solitary bridge that crosses a gurgling brook. The path leads to the top of the falls and you can walk right behind the falling curtain of water and move along to the other side. The path is well-maintained and easily walkable for any fit individual.
To enjoy the true beauty of the falls, one has to go down another series of slippery stairs that lead right beside the lovely pool at the base of the falls. Find a seat on the rocks and enjoy the beauty of the cascading water or take a dip in the shallow pools that are formed by the river flowing out into the forest. No other tourists were there around the falls and I had the area completely to myself for the next hour. I found the rocks a favourite haunt of some colourful butterflies which made the entire zone more beautiful.
What makes Bydraw special is the pristine environment of the dense jungle that adds a natural and secluded feel to the waterfall which will not be out of place in an adventure movie set.
Phe Phe Waterfalls

The reason why most travel bloggers visit Phe Phe Falls is simple- it’s beautiful. And even during the winters when the water flow is much less, this waterfall does not dry up and preserves some of its beauty. It can be covered on a day trip from Shillong- the road distance is around 80 kilometers. In fact, you can start early and cover Phe Phe and Krang Suri waterfalls in one day.
To reach Phe Phe, you need to cross a small stream on a boat or kayak and then walk for 20-25 minutes. The path is beautiful and moves across green slopes and finally, a steep downhill trail through dense shrubs takes you down right to the bottom of the falls. The image of the white ribbon of water falling over the black rocks in the crystal-clear pool is a lovely sight.
Take a few moments to sit on the rocks around the pool and enjoy the breathtaking setting. Phe Phe is located in the West Jaintia Hills district and there is a hotel near the falls.
Mawsawdong Falls

For the last member in this list, we come back to Sohra and visit the Mawkma village which is a few kilometers off the main road before you enter the main hub of Sohra. The last kilometer of the road leading to the falls is still in poor shape and not healthy for cars with low ground clearance. Once you reach the spot, there is a one kilometre downhill walk through the lovely green meadows leading to the falls. The path is well maintained by the village board and the walk is quite easy.
The falls have multiple steps cascading down beautifully and as it was raining heavily by the time I reached them, the water volume was really high. There was not a soul around with only the wind and water creating their magic in the surrounding greenery. The unique feature of the first stage of the falls is the solitary tree growing right through the flow of water, standing erect like the lone custodian of the surrounding beauty. In drier weather, the shallow pools and the rock faces create a beautiful setting that is a dream for photographers. Coming back, you can also hike a few kilometres ahead to view the beautiful Lyngksair and the Janailar Falls.

Tips For Visiting Waterfalls In Meghalaya
Before you book your tickets for a Meghalaya trip, here are a few things to keep in mind.
- To visit most of the relatively less-known waterfalls in Meghalaya, you will have to walk some distance. In some cases, the trail is steep and the steps can get muddy and slippery due to rain. So, make sure you are wearing the right kind of footwear.
- In the rainy season, there can be showers at any moment. So, make sure to carry rain jackets or umbrellas. If you are carrying camera gear, the bag needs to be waterproof.
- Public conveyance in Meghalaya is not so frequent, especially in the remote areas. You can hire local taxis from Shillong, Cherrapunji or Jowai to visit some of the nearby waterfalls. The best way is to hire your own vehicle.
- During heavy rains, the water current can be strong and the rocks extremely slippery. Ensure your safety whenever you are near a river or a stream.
Final Thoughts
So this is my list of six of the most beautiful waterfalls in Meghalaya during the rainy season which will take you off the normal tourist circuit. There are so many other wonderful white curtains in this state that I might have to write about another five some other day.
The monsoons make the elements of nature come alive with a sense of joy and vibrance that is unmatched during the rest of the year. If it is a monsoon destination that you are planning to visit, Meghalaya is a top choice. You can also go through our earlier post about a few other lovely spots in Meghalaya.
By Suvajit Banerjee
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